Back-set from Greenback Lane in a largely unnoticed strip mall near San Juan High School, the front window of “Kabab N Tikka” is decorated with pictures of various ethnic dishes that diners will find offered inside.

Entering the Pakistani-Indian restaurant on a recent afternoon, my companion and I had the place to ourselves, and were able to enjoy the quiet as we considered our options for lunch and glanced around at the ethnic jewelry and garments on the walls. We were pleasantly surprised to find the restaurant fairly affordable, with most appetizers and dishes running from 3 to 13 dollars…